Day 11 Broome

Today our youngest turned 5, and it was celebrated in great style.  We started the day with a breakfast of Scrambled Eggs and Bacon.  Much to his master's delight.  Rowan set about opening his presents and had a mini party for him early.  A couple of loads of washing done and hung, and we then set about making a picnic lunch, and made our way out to James Price Point for a picnic.  The trip out was interesting, past Willie Creek Pearls, and onwards through the red sand to the area where the protesters are destroying the environment with their busses and 4WD's parked in the bush.

 We drove onwards to the point, and had a look over the cliffs, and then took the Prado off road for the first time.  We made our way onto the beach, and parked up near a rocky formation in the sand near the water.  We spent the next hour or so hiking up the beach, collecting shells and rocks, taking photos. The white beach contrasting with the deep red cliffs is spectacular.  It is truly a very pretty place, as is the rest of Australia's coastline.  Let's face it, there is no ideal spot to build a gas processing plant, but the low lying mangroves which run for hundreds of miles up and down the coast, are probably not going to endanger the fluffy animals at all.  Perhaps I am just biased.

The contrast of colours between the sea the sky, the white beach and the red cliffs is something to behold.  topped with lush green scrub, it was quite difficult to resign ourselves to leaving.

We ate our picnic lunch and decided to head back towards Broome, and we had a few anxious momentsas the Prado sank majestically into the beach, before I decided to let air out of the tyres, and we got off the beach on our 6th attempt at going up the access point.  I told the kids there was never any doubt in it, but I was a bit worried I had stuffed up and was going to get the opportunity to trial my recovery gear.

We drove back past the lazy,no good, unemployed...sorry the protestors, and back to the Broome Hwy with one small stop to throw Ashley out of the car.  I made him jog a couple of hundred metres  before I stopped and waited for him.  Needless to say we are now officially fed up with the fighting in the back seat.  We turned towards Wyndham, and went to 12 mile where we stopped at the Mango Farm.  We had a very interesting walk amongst their plantation with written notes (Rainbow Walk) and I got to see Cashew trees, a Bloodwood and a Sandpaper tree who's leaves are capable of smoothing wood.  After an awesome Mango Cheesecake, and Mango Liqueur cake, we headed back to Broome.

When we got to the caravan, we had time for a quick change and then sang Rowan happy birthday, and demolished a large chocolate cake between us.  We all then jumped back in the car and headed off to Cable Beach for a Camel Ride.

We rode with the "Blue Camels" Broome Camel Safaris. Lisa and Emma each received a complimentary pair of pearl earrings. The girls shared a camel, as did Rowan and I, with Ashley fronting a camel to the rear. Our guide, Matt, took an incredible amount of photos of us. The sunset was sensational, as usual, and the ride was comfortable and relaxing, like a huge rocking chair. Emma and Rowan each bought a cuddly camel. Emma's is named 'Rose' and Rowan named his 'Camel'. Camel has now replaced Bunny as the snuggly night time toy of choice.

 he day was rounded off by a spectacular meal at Zanders Cable Beach and Rowan has proclaimed it "The best birthday ever!" I must say, I tend to agree.  I can't see how this trip can get better, but it has only just begun...Bring on the journey ahead…

Day 10 Broome

 This morning we woke early to meet the bus which took us to the Willie Creek Pearl Farm. It was a very informative tour, we learned all about how the pearl oyster creates the pearl, how the shells are seeded, cared for and harvested. It is quite a complex process. The kids were fascinated and got a lot of hands-on interaction. They asked lots of questions, gave intelligent answers and were chosen by the guide to demonstrate how a pearl is harvested from the shell. We learned so much.

After morning tea with damper we went on a short cruise of Willie Creek where we were shown how the shells are cared for and cleaned during the 2 years it takes to grow a pearl. The colour of the water was a stunning shade of blue I have never seen before. It is hard to believe just how expensive pearls are but knowing what goes into making them I can understand the reason why. We didn't buy any.

Then the highlight of my day came: we collected Rob from the airport! Now we can continue our holiday without worrying about work for the next 3 months. We lunched at Matso's and tried their Mango beer - who knew? It was really nice.

The afternoon was spent relaxing at the caravan, kids playing with their friends and Rob playing his guitar. We went to Cable Beach for sunset and met some camels. Rowan and Emma are so excited about riding them tomorrow.

Rowan is becoming more enthusiastic with his journal now and drew some amazing camels on the beach and even wrote a couple of words! Tomorrow is his birthday and he reminded us at every opportunity today. Our plan is to take a picnic up to James Price Point; have birthday cake and ride camels into the sunset...

Day 9 Broome

This morning we actually slept in! I didn't think that was possible. The kids finally got their wish and we spent the morning at the beach, Cable beach. The weather is lovely but chilly and the water was very cold. OK temperature for kids but not for Mums. Still, we paddled, spun around, jumped waves, played catch, built sandcastles and generally enjoyed ourselves. Cable beach is supposed to be one of the top 5 beaches in the world. I don't understand why, I think Cottesloe is much nicer. There are rocks, stingers (not today, much to the kids' relief), red sand, shallow water...but I'm not complaining, I'm on holidays and at the beach!

After lunch the kids said they were bored, so out came the schoolwork saved for just such an occasion. They did it enthusiastically and miraculously were not bored anymore.

Later in the afternoon I dragged three reluctant children to Chinatown to browse through shops. They ended up having an awesome time - checking out old pearl luggers, looking at expensive jewellery, quizzing an aboriginal art gallery curator about every single painting on the wall, getting free postcards from another gallery keeper because they were so 'cute and well behaved'. Ashley obtained a free guide to throwing boomerangs from her as well. The highlight of his afternoon though, was the sea shell gallery where he also was finally allowed to spend some of his money and bought some shells and a starfish - all carefully budgeted for.

The kids have made friends again and are playing footy together. I have emptied out the cupboards and sprayed for ants - we have a major invasion! Now I get to sit down and chill with a Matso's Ginger Beer and write this. Guess what? I finally feel relaxed.

Day 8 Broome

This morning was stressful for me, but by the end of the day so many wonderful, kind people helped me with the caravan that it really ended up being OK. A fellow caravanner took pity on my pathetic attempt at backing the car onto the caravan and offered to do it for me. Yes please! Then Ron at Overall Repairs unhitched it again and we were free to get out and explore Broome.

First stop the visitor's centre where we booked a tour of a pearl farm for Wednesday morning, then off to the Broome museum which was free for the kids and they each got an activity sheet to complete. The sheets covered all ages and abilities with Rowan just needing to tick pictures of items he found; Emma answering questions with one word answers and Ashley taking on more complex questions. They each had fun exploring the place and received a certificate of completion and a postcard of the diving suit displayed in the foyer.

There was a small kids water playground nearby at the town beach so we changed the kids into bathers and they ran around firing water cannons at each other for an hour. Then we grabbed some lunch and went to Gantheaume Point to see the dinosaur footprints. We couldn't see the real ones as they are only visible at extremely low tides and some were stolen in the late 1990's but there is a concrete cast of them to get an idea. What the kids thought was a huge footprint was really just Anastasia's pool. The thought was cool while it lasted, only to be shot down by a nearby tour guide from a group.

The repair man rang and said he'd sorted the door so off we went to collect the van before he left. He hitched it all for us as well. Lovely man. There are new hinges and it isn't perfect but it is functional. When we get back to Perth we will need a new door and frame. I thought I'd be brave and try to back the van into the site but then freaked out in the process. Fortunately the family next door to us (who were also at the repair place this morning) took over and between the two of them, backed the van in for me. Hooray! Their kids made friends with ours and we all had a swim in the pool later in the afternoon.

Day 7 80 Mile Beach to Broome

Not much to report today .We got up early, sorted the washing and took the kids for a walk along the beach. The tide was out even further than yesterday, but the wildlife was all in hiding.

The drive to Broome was long and mind-numbing. Not much to the terrain out here. Flat and featureless. Rob drove and I slept as I have a chest infection now. Hooray! Second port of call tomorrow, after the caravan repairer, that is, will be the chemist.

Once we settled in at the Palm Grove Caravan Park, we went to Matso's Brewery for some dinner before we needed to drop Rob at the airport. Unfortunately their dinner isn't served until Rob's check-in time so we had a Kimberly Tasting Plate instead. The kids all excitedly tucked in to try crocodile and kangaroo, both of which were tasty, although I found crocodile to be a bit dry. Matso's ginger beer is fantastic and a six pack has come home with me…

Rob is now flying to Perth for his connecting flight to Thailand for work. His whirlwind trip will bring him back to us on Wednesday afternoon. In the meantime we will fix the door and explore Broome's sights.

Day 6 Karijini to 80 Mile Beach

This morning we woke at dawn and saw the sun rise over the beautiful Karijini landscape. Off to an early start, we stopped at Munjina Gorge lookout to watch the highway arch through the high, rocky walls. Just Beautiful. The drive to Port Hedland became ever flatter and more dull with a lot of cattle carcasses along the roadside.

Port Hedland was unpleasant and industrial, but we stopped for lunch at MacDonalds - ostensibly for their free wifi but it was so slow it wasn't worth it. We picked up a few electrical supplies and then drove past Dampier Salt and the port to show the kids the iron ore trains.

Three hours of excruciatingly boring, flat featureless terrain came next, except for a series of termite mounds with white tips which turned out to be hard hats! Very funny. We stopped just after the turnoff to Wallal Downs 80 Mile Beach caravan park to Glad-Wrap our screen door. It worked very well to stop the dust coming in and consequently has helped keep the temperature up in the van. I wish we had thought of this over the past two freezing nights.

The park is huge! Very full, neat and tidy. After a quick set up we went out to the beach which goes on (for miles...at least 80) to each horizon. The tide was far out and we walked all the way out to inspect tiny snails, hermit crabs and sea-dollars in the exposed sand. The kids had a ball and Emma was in hermit crab heaven.

The sunset was gorgeous too. I managed to get two very smelly loads of washing done and hung at dusk. I guess we will see how clean it is in the morning. Showers were heavenly...it is fantastic to feel clean again.

Day 5 Karijini

This morning we went to the visitors centre and got our junior ranger badges for the kids completing the worksheets. They were all very proud of their achievement, as they should be. They have learnt a lot about conservation, and the flora and fauna of Karijini.

From the Visitors centre, we went across to Oxer's lookout where the four gorges meet. Lisa found this exhilarating as her last trip up to this point there was no lookout, and no safety railing. We then entered Dales Gorge via the West trail and walked all the way back to the stairs through flowing water and tall grass. I have never seen the bottom of the gorge this way. Once I have seen it under water, and the other 2 times, the floor has been a rocky waste land. We were forced to turn back before handrail pool as there was a section of water that was impassable for the 5 of us. We climbed the stairs out, and had some lunch at the car park.

After lunch we drove out of the park via the East road to Mount Bruce, and went out to Hamersley Gorge. This place has it's own magic, and apart from the extensive building works at the top with new stairs, toilets and what looks to be an information centre, there is little that has changed with this gorge on all of my trips here. We were able to bathe under the waterfall (Trust me, this was needed after 3 days without showers) and the kids waded in the pool at the bottom. The water was again absolutely freezing, and I just couldn't bring myself to get in fully this time.

We departed Hamersley Gorge with some reluctance and headed back to Tom Price for a bite of dinner and the chance to get our hands on some Rekordials. On the drive back, we stopped to offer our assistance to the ranger who was attending a car rollover on the Karijini Road, but we were assured that the Ambulance was coming and the injuries weren't life threatening, so we went back to camp right on sunset. We were all very tired after climbing in and out of two gorges today, and went to bed early...

Day 4 Karijini

After a very windy and cold night, we set off this morning to the visitors centre to have a look at the display.  Whilst Lisa and I found some really interesting factual information, the kids were hell bent on destroying the place, so we stayed for approx 1 hour and decided it was time to brave the gorge.

We drove around to the day use area, and walked the short distance to the gorge entry point. Lisa was freaking out about the kids descending, but we all made it to the bottom safe and sound. There was a challenging walk over the rocks to Circular Pool. When we arrived, we sat and had some lunch, but there was a brisk breeze blowing and the water felt antarctic to say the least, so we abstained from having a swim. In January there was flooding from the cyclones, and a lot of the vegetation has been knocked over.

We than made our way back through the bottom of the gorge to Fortescue Falls. The kids were very excited to see a real waterfall, and to be at a place that they have on a poster in their bedrooms back home. After climbing out of Fortescue Falls we walked across to Fern Pool and the kids and I had a swim. The water was still very cold, but it was nice to feel clean again.

The climb back out of Fortescue Falls was somewhat challenging, but rewarding at the same time. The kids are raving about how cool it has been to have been down the gorge today. I think we will all be sleeping well tonight. Whilst in the gorge we saw butterflies, dragonflies, flies, fish, a goanna, plenty of birds and parrots.

Day 3 Newman to Karijini

 

Today we felt things were getting back on track, and we started the day with a ham and eggs fry up. Kalgans Rest Caravan Park was absolutely awesome, and we woke up refreshed and ready for the mine tour after packing the van up.

We got to the visitors centre early, and realised that the camp ground at Karijini we were booked into, was 45km up a dirt road (Heavily corrugated according to the campers we were speaking to...DOH!!!) Not an ideal situation for the caravan minus one door, so we went about changing our accommodation plans for the day.

A couple of phone calls later and we were on the tour bus clad in our fluoro orange vests, safety glasses and hard hats. The tour was incredibly interesting, and we got to see the mine operation from the lookout, as well as having a descriptive commentary from a BHP employee. The kids were fascinated with the facts and figures (Except Rowan who decided he was tired and bored) and also with the movements of the diggers, trucks, water trucks and trains.

A quick trip back to the caravan to hook up and have a snack, and we were on our way to Karijini. We arrived after the spectacular drive at around 3pm. We are staying at the Dales campground, and we have a short 15 minute walk from our site to circular pool which we will explore more thoroughly tomorrow. We have been informed that the water temperatures are arctic. When we got back from our trek down to the circular pool lookout, we arrived at our caravan to meet our little friend to the right here. This gave the kids another half hour of squealing delights.

I have the kids terrified about drop bears, dingos and giant bugs now...tee hee.

Met some nice Dutchies whilst BBQing the meat for dinner. They were impressed I was able to pick their accent, and my vast knowledge of the 3 Dutch words I know. The stars are breath taking at night. We were able to pick out the Southern Cross almost immediately, but it was difficult to accept that there are so many other stars around it that we never get to see. I know Ashley was impressed. We will have to get Rowan and Emma to look tomorrow.

Day 2 Meekatharra to Newman

This morning began in a positive way. We all had a good night's sleep despite the noise of the road trains passing. Rob spent a good deal of time on the phone to Jayco in Melbourne and Perth as well as a caravan repairer in Broome. To have a new door made and shipped up north would have taken 4 weeks but the repairer in Broome looked at the photos we emailed and said he could replace the hinges and re-hang the existing door. It will only take a day! So we can continue on as planned without having to miss out on Karijini.

The drive from Meekatharra to Newman was shared and uneventful. We did have a minor moment when the police car overtook us with lights flashing, but they had more important business than our lapse in adherence to the speed limit in the road works zone.  There was a rollover approx 50km up the road, and we saw an ambulance heading back to Newman.  Fingers crossed that the occupants are ok.  Plenty of road-kill including cows, complete with feeding Wedge Tailed Eagles - beautiful birds. Termite mounds reappeared much to Rowan's delight and we saw plenty of very large road trains including two parts of a house that we had the pleasure of passing twice and  a four-trailered one at Capricorn Roadhouse - an enormous truck stop development.

The countryside up here is ever changing as usual.  I have now seen it green with foliage, completely red and devoid of foliage, and as it was today with an endless covering of yellowy spinifex and grasses. 

We had our photo-op at the Tropic of Capricorn, then arrived in Newman by the early afternoon. Plenty of time to check in at a nice caravan park with awesome ablutions and go to check out the Newman Visitor Centre. The kids loved getting up close to the big trucks (little haulpaks) and old mining machinery including the bucket from a large digger/loader which the climbed in to. Ashley and Emma made their first birthday-money purchases (polished iron ore and bookmarks) which they loved doing all by themselves and getting change!

We finished off the day with a trip to Radio Hill lookout over the town and having a barbecue at a local park and playground where the kids ran amok until the sun set.

Poor Rowan was so tired he could barely draw a picture in his journal but the other two are writing theirs enthusiastically and with so much detail - I am very proud.

All of us are looking forward to our Mt Whaleback Mine tour tomorrow morning with possibly a sleep in and a cooked breakfast.  Best of all, we should be at Karijini just after lunch which has been a feature of this first week for all of us.  No posts for a couple of days though, can't see the wifi hooking up in Karijini

Day 1 Perth to Meekatharra

Day one saw some interesting trials and tribulations.  Although we managed to drag ourselves out of bed at 5am, and had the kids up and in the car by 6am, we had an unforseen day of mishaps ahead of us.

 One return trip home to get my phone, and we were off.  Smooth sailing through traffic and we got to see the majesty of the sun rise on the way through Bindoon.

The long drive took its toll though.  I think Lisa was asleep, and I wasn't fairing much better, but somehow between us we missed Dalwallinu and Wubin, and found ourselves in Morawa instead of on the Gt Northern Hwy to Paynes Find.  Don't remember either town, so I guess missing the turnoff was a given. 

We got some lunch into us, reassessed and headed towards Mullewa, and decided to take a shortcut to Yalgoo.  Only 40km of unsealed road, but definitely saw some of the outback, and got the Prado's capabilities tested albeit on  a graded dirt road.  From Yalgoo, we followed the main road back to Mt Magnet.  This road saw the kids introduced to Termite mounds (Small ones) and our first sighting of a mine, and some wild goats.  It only ended up putting an extra 100km on the drive for the day, so not so costly a mistake.

Arrived in Meekatharra at 5:15pm, with plenty of cows near the road, and the odd bird of prey.  Seen plenty of roo kill along the highway, so was glad to reach Meeka unscathed.  Or so it would seem.  Whilst parking the van, I have misjudged the turn around a concrete slab in the park, and consequently dented the foot well at the bottom step...not so bad unless you also consider the door was smashed off the hinges.  It took some gentle persuasion with a brick and a screwdriver to pry the screen door open prior to my handy panel beating with a gympie and a thong.  We still have a screen door that locks, but the outer door is cactus, so we are in for some repairs and rescheduling on day 1…Who said it wouldn't be an adventure?  Oh...and I split my thong in half...Sigh**

The park itself is baffling to say the least.  There are large concrete slabs everywhere, which have excavations around them.  I don't think they are supposed to have caravans parked on them.  Lots of red dirt.  The only real bonus of today is that the kids are totally knackered and have taken to their beds without argument.   The shower block is a mine site donga, and there are no bbq's around as far as the eye can see, and the water tastes like a mixture of chlorine and poo.  In fact, we have all taken to drinking the tank water on the van, cos that only tastes like the PVC of the hose that filled them.